The chut thai phra ratcha niyom are the eight Thai national costumes, developed in the 1960s at the initiative of Queen Sirikit from traditional court and village dress. Each pairs a blouse or bodice with a pha sin, the long wrapped or tailored silk skirt, and each suits a different time of day and level of formality. As a guide: the higher the neck and the longer the sleeve, the more formal the daytime occasion; the richer the brocade and the more jewellery, the grander the evening.
The look. A collarless blouse with elbow-length or three-quarter sleeves and a row of buttons, worn with an ankle-length pha sin, often striped or in plain cotton or silk.
When to wear it. The most relaxed costume: daytime ceremonies, merit-making, temple visits, family celebrations and Songkran or Loy Krathong gatherings.
In the collection: Chut Thai Ruean Ton, dusty rose
The look. A high round collar, long sleeves and a buttoned front, with a pha sin that has a pleated front panel; usually plain silk with a woven border.
When to wear it. Daytime formal occasions: official receptions, formal ceremonies and a bride's or family's morning engagement rites.
In the collection: Chut Thai Chitlada, jade silk
The look. The Chitlada's evening counterpart: the same high collar and long sleeves, but in brocade or silk woven with gold thread, worn with more jewellery.
When to wear it. Formal evening events: dinners, receptions and evening wedding parties.
In the collection: Chut Thai Amarin, gold brocade
The look. Long sleeves and a high round neck, with the bodice joined to the pha sin as one piece and a belt at the waist.
When to wear it. Formal ceremonies by day or evening — a favourite for a bride's morning water-pouring ceremony (rod nam sang) and for the families of the couple.
In the collection: Chut Thai Boromphiman, ivory and gold
The look. A pha sin with a pleated front panel and a sabai — a long silk or brocade shawl — wrapped around the chest and draped over one shoulder, leaving the other bare. Worn with statement Thai gold.
When to wear it. The most popular bridal costume, especially for the evening reception; also grand evening galas and formal celebrations.
In the collection: Chut Thai Chakkri, emerald with gold sabai, Chut Thai Chakkri, champagne silk
The look. The grandest form of the Chakkri, with an additional sabai layered over the first and the most elaborate jewellery.
When to wear it. Royal and state ceremonies and the most formal weddings.
The look. A sleeveless bodice with a scoop or round neck, richly embroidered with beads or sequins and joined to the pha sin — the most Western-influenced of the eight.
When to wear it. Formal evening events, galas and wedding receptions.
In the collection: Chut Thai Dusit, blush with pearl beading
The look. Like the Boromphiman — long sleeves, a high neck and an attached pha sin — but in brocade, with a sabai sash draped across the shoulder.
When to wear it. Formal evening and state occasions, and weddings where a covered but ceremonial look is wanted.
In the collection: Chut Thai Siwalai, sapphire silk